Isolating the batteries prevents a weak or dead battery (usually the auxiliary battery) from draining charge from a strong battery (often the primary battery). This supports simultaneously charging more than one battery from a single alternator or other power sources without connecting the batteries in parallel.
There are system performance tradeoffs between battery separators and battery isolators and between various implementations of battery isolators.Ī battery isolator is used to separate the DC bus into multiple (isolated) branches and only allow current flow in one direction in each branch. Adding a second battery system for auxiliary loads can resolve that concern, but it must be properly wired into the vehicle’s electrical system. If a single battery system is used, the battery can become drained when the engine is off, and auxiliary loads are drawing power, resulting in an inability to start the engine. Disconnecting the two allows the separator to prioritize the charging of the batteries. On the other hand, battery separators are designed to protect the charging system from excessive electrical loads by separating (disconnecting) the main and auxiliary batteries from one another. Battery isolators are designed to prevent auxiliary batteries from draining the main battery. Their are multiple threads on Mud about dual battery set ups you might want to reference too.Battery cell isolators and battery cell separators are used to control current flow in multi-battery systems in a range of vehicles, including recreational vehicles, boats, utility vehicles, airplanes, large trucks, and off-road vehicles that accommodate auxiliary loads and high current loads such as a recovery winch. Hellroaring Battery Isolator/Combiner notes for 4 Wheel Drive dual battery applications Their EE suggested 150A fuses for each battery and 250A for their combined output to the winch. The website is an education even if you don't use their product. I use a Hellroaring Technologies isolator/combiner and it solves all of your issues at once. Resulting in you draining both batteries if you have any sort of load on the spare. Third, if you bypass one of the diodes in the isolator by running an additional wire to your main battery, it then gives a way for current to run from the main battery to the spare (but not the spare to the main). A solenoid or SSSW has very little resistance. Your 120 amp isolator could handle a pretty heavy load but over any kind of duration the internal resistance will cause a lot of heat. If you want to be able to draw from both batteries when winching or to jump start youself, you will need a high current, constant duty solenoid or solid state switch to combine them. The stock 10 ga wire is way too small and should be left out of your system. 4 ga wires should be more than adequate for anything the MG can put out. Next, an isolator is intended to split alternator output without allowing current to move between the two batteries. Perhaps the Mean Green alternator is different? You might want to check your alternator voltage after the isolator to make sure. It would ruin new batteries in a matter of months.
#Should i wire amp to battery ground isolator full#
The alternator was putting out the voltage it was supposed to but, because the isolator's resistance robbed some of it, the batteries weren't recieving a full charge. I tried running a Sure Power isolator on my '87 FJ-60 and it didn't work because the sense voltage was internal to the alternator. Or do I need to go from the #1 post on the isolator to the primary battery? On the FJ62 if I go directly from the MG alt to the primary battery, will I defeat the purpose of the isolator? I would think that the isolator will tell the alternator via the exciter wire when to charge the batteries.
I left the stock wire from the alt to battery in place there as well. On my Powerstroke Excursion I have a 270 Amp alternator with a 00 wire with a 300 amp fuse. This thread, " Maximizing the performance of the stock alternator" The wire to the secondary battery is 4AWG and goes through a 50Amp circuit breaker.ĭo I run the 1AWG direct from the alternator to the primary battery or come from the #1 pole on the isolator to the primary battery? Either way it will go to a ANG 200Watt fuse close to the battery. The wire to the primary battery, #1, goes into the stock wiring harness that has 2 wimpy 10AWG or so wires in it that go to the battery. Then there are 4AWG wires from the #1 and #2 posts to the batteries. Currently with Dearborn's kit there is a 4AWG wire from the alternator to the A pole on the isolator. I want to run another wire (1AWG) from the alternator to the primary battery.
I think it has failed so I have purchased a 120 Amp isolator to replace it. My dual batt kit came with a Sure Power 95 Amp isolator. I just upgraded to a Mean Green Alternator on my FJ62 and have had Urban Land Cruisers dual battery wiring kit and 2 group 65 Sears Die Hard Platinum batteries.
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